On the Road to India – Bhutan Motorcycle Tour. Travel Diary.
A Bhutan Motorcycle Tour is an unforgettable adventure filled with exotic landscapes, winding mountain roads, and encounters with incredibly friendly people. Together with Jurek, we set off early from Gauwahati to avoid the heat and reach the Bhutanese border. After completing customs and immigration formalities, we headed towards picturesque places like Trashigang and Mongar.
During our journey, we stopped at a Buddhist monastery, participated in a Puja ceremony, and explored impressive dzongs. We rode through Bhutan’s highest passes, admiring breathtaking views. Despite challenges such as fog, landslides, and roadworks, our Bhutan Motorcycle Tour was a success.
Bhutan Motorcycle Tour to the Border
We set off from Gauwahati early in the morning, aiming to avoid the heat, as the Bhutanese border is 100 km away. In India, such a distance typically takes about three hours to cover. We pass through small bamboo villages and jungles. Fortunately, traffic is minimal, though it gets crowded on the bridges. After 50 km, the national road narrows into a local road. The villages we pass become more atmospheric, and we ride by tea plantations. 30 km before the border, the asphalt disappears, and we join rickshaws and bicycles on a gravel road.
5 km before the border, we come across a small building with a sign reading “Indian Customs.” We need to settle our CPD carnets. The customs officers have never seen these documents before. We offer to fill everything out ourselves for them to just sign and stamp. After 20 minutes, everything is sorted. We then search for “Indian Immigration.” Unfortunately, there is no immigration office along the way. Bhutanese people inform us that we need to go back 7 km to a bridge where there is a small booth. We return with a smile past the Indian customs officers and head towards the bridge.
We find the booth before the bridge, with the “Indian Immigration” sign lying overturned among the palm trees. After 20 minutes, a smiling Indian man arrives, dressed in a tank top and shorts. Together, we stamp our passports and fill out the papers. Everything proceeds smoothly and in a friendly atmosphere. Finally, we can proceed to the Bhutanese checkpoint. On the Bhutanese side, we are greeted by officials in traditional attire who ask, “Where is your guide?”
Border of Bhutan – Bhutan Motorcycle Tour
You need to know that Bhutan can only be explored with a guide, but we have all the required permits. Thanks to Mr. Kinley Tshering, who runs a travel company that organizes tours in Bhutan, including motorcycle tours on KTMs, everything is in order. Mr. Kinley is a motorcyclist himself, so he perfectly understands our needs and perspective. The female officials can’t believe that we are traveling alone on motorcycles, and from the east no less. Theoretically, tourists can only enter Bhutan from the west, and can exit via the eastern border. We tell them that we will meet our guide in the next major city. The officials call their superior. After checking our documents, we receive our Bhutanese visas and hear, “Welcome to Bhutan.”
Motorcycle Rides through Bhutan
In 2012, I began organizing various trips to Bhutan in close cooperation with Mr. Kinley Tshering. This friendship and collaboration continue to this day. Initially, these were mainly cultural, car, and trekking trips. Starting in 2024, motorcycle trips also began. It’s an incredible experience to travel through Bhutan on a motorcycle, which allows access to many “hidden corners.”
The next motorcycle/car trip to Bhutan is planned for October 2024. Details are available here: Bhutan Trip 10-18-10-2024
Curious about what the last Shangri-La looks like? Join us! You don’t need to ride a motorcycle.
The mysterious gate with the sign “Bhutan” opens for us. We enter the Land of the Thunder Dragon! Everyone waves goodbye. The people of Bhutan wear traditional clothes, and the houses are adorned with Buddhist motifs. The country looks exotic and beautiful. Not far past the border, we encounter the first checkpoint. Again, they ask about our guide. Our response is accepted, and we receive another stamp.
Bhutan Motorcycle Tour – The Land of the Thunder Dragon
The Land of the Thunder Dragon, Bhutan, is a small country located in the Himalayas between India and China. It is known for its unique Gross National Happiness policy, which emphasizes sustainable development, environmental protection, and the well-being of its citizens over economic indicators. Bhutan is enchanting with its scenic landscapes, mountain monasteries, and rich Buddhist culture. The kingdom maintains traditional values and lifestyle, making it a unique place on the world map.
Riding through the Mountains
Just beyond the border, the mountains begin. The road is very winding and narrow. The asphalt is fairly good, but every now and then we have to navigate through mud due to landslides. A week before our arrival in Bhutan, there was an earthquake – 6.5 on the Richter scale. It is evident that repair work is ongoing. Since we cross the border early, we decide to reach Trashigang that day. The ride through the mountains is fantastic. We only stop for photos. Traffic is minimal, which is not surprising considering Bhutan’s population is only about 750,000! The temperatures have finally become pleasant for riding – the heat remains in the valleys.
Bhutan Motorcycle Tour – Trashigang
Trashigang is one of the dzongkhags (districts) in Bhutan, located in the eastern part of the country. It is one of the most important regions, known for its picturesque landscapes and rich culture. The district’s capital, also called Trashigang, is one of the oldest towns in Bhutan. The region is home to many traditional Buddhist monasteries, the most famous of which is Trashigang Dzong, an impressive fortress built in the 17th century. Trashigang is also a significant educational center, with several notable schools and colleges attracting students from all over Bhutan.
Bhutan Motorcycle Tour – Overnight Stay in a Buddhist Monastery
80 km before reaching Trashigang, it starts to rain – the first rain we’ve encountered in a long time. It gets dark faster than we expect. We are cold and soaked. 20 km before Trashigang, in the town of Kanglung, we stop in front of the gate of a beautifully looking Buddhist monastery. We ride in and ask for a place to stay. The monks agree without hesitation to let us spend the night. Although it is not customary to stay in monasteries in Bhutan, we decide to give it a try. We park our motorcycles and approach the first monks we meet. We must look like a sight of misery and despair: drenched and exhausted. They provide us with a small room, mattresses, and a heater. The monks serve us warm milk tea and a traditional Bhutanese dinner, including red rice.
Buddhist Puja Festival and Dzong in Bhutan
The monks are very kind. We quickly start conversations about life, customs, and the differences in our religions. Monk Kuenga Penjor tells us about Buddhism. A Buddhist Puja is taking place in the monastery. Kuenga explains the significance of this festival. He gives us a tour of the monastery and tells us we can watch the celebrations whenever we want. Many important figures from all over Bhutan have gathered at the monastery. Everyone actively participates in the festival celebrations. It was an incredible night, full of prayers and music. In the morning, the monks invite us for breakfast. We are reluctant to leave. This was one of the most unforgettable experiences of our entire six-month journey. We were very fortunate that it rained the previous evening and we decided to stop in Kanglung instead of heading straight to Trashigang.
Puja is an important Buddhist ritual involving offerings and prayers to express reverence, gratitude, and requests for blessings. The ceremony may include the offering of incense, flowers, food, and lights, as well as the recitation of mantras and chants. Puja takes place both in monasteries and in the homes of the faithful, playing a crucial role in the daily lives and spiritual practices of Buddhists.
We arrive in Trashigang early and have time to explore the city and its beautiful dzong. Dzongs serve religious, administrative, and defensive functions. They are impressive complexes with massive walls, towers, and courtyards. Inside, they contain temples, monasteries, and government offices. Dzongs play a key role in the social and cultural life of Bhutan, being sites for important ceremonies and festivals. Such structures are unique to Bhutan, with their enormous size and spectacular locations, often perched on cliffs. The Dzong in Trashigang is the first one we have ever seen in our lives.
Bhutan Motorcycle Tour – The Road to Mongar
After a short visit to the town, we head down the steep and winding road into the valley. At the next checkpoint, they ask about our guide again, but everything goes smoothly. It turns out that the monastery we want to visit is not covered by our permit. We manage to convince the checkpoint officer that we will leave our permit with him, visit the monastery, and return as quickly as possible without anyone noticing. He agrees.
We arrive at the picturesque Gom Kora. After collecting our permit, we continue towards Mongar. On the way, we want to visit another monastery – Drametse. It is one of the most important monasteries in eastern Bhutan. We have to climb over 800 meters up a steep dirt road, giving us a bit of a “Bhutanese off-road” experience. The ascent is not easy, but it is worth it. The monastery looks magical. We explore the chapels and observe the monks’ daily life.
We descend the same dirt road. Descents are more challenging than ascents, but we manage to cover the 18 km without any surprises. We then continue on the main, narrow asphalt road. The ride is fantastic, full of hairpin turns. We reach Mongar by evening. We cannot stay in the dzong, so we check into a hotel. There, we meet our first tourists – a Swiss couple.
Gom Kora is an important pilgrimage site in Bhutan, located in the Trashigang region. It is a picturesque temple complex situated by the river, surrounded by rocks and lush vegetation. Gom Kora is known for its beautiful temple, where, according to legend, Guru Rinpoche meditated. Every year, a festival is held here, attracting numerous pilgrims and tourists who come to participate in ceremonies, mask dances, and prayers.
Bhutan Motorcycle Tour – The Road to Bumthang
Mongar is the last city we visit in eastern Bhutan. From Mongar, we head to Bumthang (also known as Jakar) in central Bhutan. We have to cross some of the highest passes in the country – Trumshing La (3750 m above sea level) and Sheytang La (3596 m above sea level). Trumshing La distinctly separates the central part of the country from the east. Over 84 km, we overcome a 3200-meter elevation difference.
The road takes us through green rice fields and jungle. We see many monkeys jumping in the lush greenery. Before Trumshing La, we stop in the small village of Sengor for a local lunch. We meet an engineer working on road construction in Bhutan. After a while, a few Royal Enfield Bullet motorcycles arrive. We meet some friendly Indians from Hyderabad making a pioneering journey through Bhutan. They are surprised that we managed to enter Bhutan from the east. According to them, it was impossible! We spend over an hour chatting about travel and motorcycles before continuing our journey.
At the pass, we meet the Swiss couple from Mongar. They invite us for tea and cookies. It’s a beautiful place to stop, with views of the valley and snow-capped mountains in the distance. After Trumshing La, the landscape changes completely. The jungle disappears, and pine trees appear. Even the houses change their appearance, with more wooden elements.
We see even more monasteries on the valley slopes. Most are in hard-to-reach places without road access. Only the monastery in Ura is close to the road. At the Sheytang La pass, locals are building a chorten. They stop passersby and collect donations for the construction. Of course, we contribute to the cause.
Chortens in Bhutan
A chorten, also known as a stupa, is a sacred Buddhist structure in Bhutan symbolizing the enlightenment of Buddha. Built on a square base with a domed upper part, a chorten often contains relics, sacred texts, and religious symbols. It serves as a place of meditation and prayer and is also a pilgrimage site. Chortens are commonly found throughout Bhutan, both in cities and remote mountainous regions.
From the pass, it is a short distance to Bumthang (Jakar). Bumthang is the religious heart of the country, with many interesting sights to see. As it is already late, we leave the sightseeing for the next day. We find a cozy, non-touristy hotel for the night. In the evening, a group of motorcyclists from Kolkata’s Eastern Bulls club visits us. We spend the entire evening chatting. Such meetings are great!
Bumthang Region in Central Bhutan
Bumthang is a picturesque region in central Bhutan, considered the spiritual heart of the country. It consists of four valleys: Chokhor, Tang, Ura, and Chhume, known for their numerous temples, monasteries, and historical sites. Bumthang is also an important agricultural center, famous for its production of honey, cheese, and apples. The region attracts tourists and pilgrims with its beauty, rich culture, and traditional festivals such as Jambay Lhakhang Drup and the Festival of Lights.
The Road to Trongsa – Bhutan Motorcycle Tour
We spend more than half the day exploring the Bumthang (Jakar) area. There is so much to see here, and one could easily spend a week. We limit ourselves to visiting dzongs and monasteries that are accessible by road. We visit five gompas and monasteries, which are among the oldest and most important in Bhutan. The area around Bumthang is the heart of Buddhism in Bhutan, and it is evident at every turn.
We start to encounter a few tourists. This is a sign that from Bumthang westwards, the country’s tourist regions begin. There are relatively few tourists, but in the east, there were none at all.
From Bumthang to Trongsa is only 65 km. We cover the route smoothly in the afternoon, arriving just in time for sunset at the dzong in Trongsa. The Trongsa Dzong is picturesquely situated high above the valley. We find a less touristy hotel than the previous night. When we order Bhutanese food, the owner cannot believe it. He asks if we are sure because it is Bhutanese, not European food. Of course, we want it, and it turns out to be an excellent choice. We wash it all down with Bhutanese beer: Red Panda (a local weissbier) and Druk 11000 (a light beer).
The Road from Trongsa to Punakha – Bhutan Motorcycle Tour
From Trongsa, we head to Punakha, the religious summer capital of the country. Along the way, we cross the Pele La pass (3390 meters above sea level). The pass proves to be a barrier separating different ecosystems. From coniferous forests, we enter mixed forests. From the pass, we can see the snow-capped Jomolhari (7314 meters above sea level), the highest peak entirely within Bhutan.
Beyond the pass, we turn into the Phobjika Valley, where we want to see the famous Gangtey Gompa. We are lucky because a local festival is taking place at the gompa. The courtyard is filled with residents from the entire valley, dressed in beautiful traditional costumes. We watch mask dances and various performances prepared by the monks. Such local festivals are unique events – an unforgettable experience.
Charged with positive energy, after a few hours of admiring the local performances, we head to Punakha. The Punakha Dzong makes a huge impression on us. It is the most beautiful building in all of Bhutan. Situated at the confluence of the Mother River and the Father River, it is surrounded by crystal clear water on three sides. The main entrance is through a traditional bridge. A policeman, who claims to know more than the guides, tells us the history of the dzong.
In the evening, we pitch our tent on the bank of the Mother River. We find a beautiful, small forest, separated from the road and right by the river. It is the perfect place for camping. We light a campfire and enjoy Bhutanese beer. We only miss Polish sausages. 🙂
Bhutan Motorcycle Tour – From Punakha to Thimphu
The road from Punakha to Thimphu takes us half the time we anticipated. In this part of the country, the roads are wider than in the east. We can drive faster without worrying about head-on collisions. The number of jeeps filled with tourists increases dramatically. We are approaching the only airport in Bhutan, located near Paro. On the way, we cross the Dochu La pass (3140 meters above sea level).
We explore the monastery at the pass and wander around the chortens. We are slightly bothered by Indian tourists. Our monopoly on sightseeing is over. We are no longer alone but still the only ones without a guide and on motorcycles. The Indians ask if my motorcycle is from West Bengal (the region of India adjacent to Bhutan). I have a WB registration, like everyone in West Bengal, but the size and type of the motorcycle raise suspicions. 🙂
Thimphu, the Capital of Bhutan
Thimphu is the capital and largest city of Bhutan, located in the western part of the country. It is the political, economic, and cultural center of Bhutan, blending modernity with tradition. Thimphu hosts many important institutions, including the royal palace, Tashichho Dzong – the seat of the government, and numerous temples and museums. The city is known for its interesting landscapes and traditional architecture, making it a popular tourist destination.
Thimphu does not make the best impression on us. Like any capital city, it is larger and busier than other cities in Bhutan. It lacks the idyllic atmosphere. Thimphu is home to the King of Bhutan and the highest ecclesiastical authorities. The Dzong in Thimphu is gigantic. The main attraction is the weekend market, where people from the entire valley sell their goods. We happen to be in Thimphu on a Saturday, so we manage to visit the market.
In the evening, we meet with Wangmo, who works with Mr. Kinley Tshering. Unfortunately, Mr. Tshering is outside of Bhutan. Thanks to them, we could travel through almost the entire Bhutan on our “Africas.” Wangmo takes us to a local restaurant, where we feast on Bhutanese delicacies. Jurek takes the risk of trying the “spicy” dishes (and “spicy” in Bhutan means insanely spicy). I can’t handle it.
From Thimphu to Paro – Bhutan Motorcycle Tour
The ride from Thimphu to Paro is very quick. Part of the route is a dual carriageway. We enjoy the winding roads without worrying about sand, trucks, or stones. Thimphu and Paro are the most touristy places in Bhutan. They are not quite the kind of places we prefer. We explore Paro in the afternoon. Directly from Thimphu, we head to the famous monastery, Tiger’s Nest.
Tiger’s Nest, also known as Paro Taktsang, is one of the most famous and picturesque places in Bhutan. It is a Buddhist monastery built on a cliff, about 900 meters above the Paro Valley. Legend has it that Guru Rinpoche, who introduced Buddhism to Bhutan, arrived here on the back of a tigress and meditated in one of the caves. The monastery, consisting of several temples, is a destination for many pilgrims and a popular tourist attraction, drawing visitors with its extraordinary location and spiritual atmosphere.
Tiger’s Nest is the most spectacular and well-known monastery in Bhutan. It is literally suspended on the rocks, looking as if it is glued to a vertical cliff face. There is no direct access to the monastery. From the forest parking lot, you have to hike over 900 meters uphill. The path is steep. Every tourist who comes to this country and wants to see this monastery must conquer this ascent. We parked our motorcycles and set off on the trek.
The climb is not easy for me. I must admit that sitting on a motorcycle for the past five months has taken a toll on my fitness. Jurek is doing better. We overtake most of the hikers, but at times I am quite out of breath. However, the sight of the monastery suspended above the cliff is worth all the effort. It is a magical place, and even the large number of tourists cannot spoil it.
On the way back, we meet the first Polish person in Bhutan. And at the bottom, we find a pleasant surprise. The drivers of the tourist jeeps have washed our motorcycles. It’s deja vu – just like earlier in Turkey! It’s nice and amazing. Two different countries, religions, and people, yet the same kind of surprise. One might wonder – what connects Turkey with Bhutan…
In the afternoon, we explore the other attractions of Paro, including another spectacular dzong. In the evening, it starts to rain. We retreat to the hostel for some beer. Joining us in the celebration are… the Czechs 🙂
Bhutan Motorcycle Tour – The Route to Phuntsholing
Our stay in Bhutan flies by. It is a beautiful country with a rich culture and many historical sites. The Bhutanese take great care of their culture at every step. Unfortunately, we have to say goodbye to Paro and Bhutan, and rush to the border. Our visa expires on October 5th. Most of the route to Phuntsholing (the border town with India) goes smoothly.
The last 70 km are a struggle with roadworks and landslides. The fog is thick and it is raining. The conditions do not compel the Bhutanese and Indians to turn on their lights. Vehicles suddenly appear right in front of the motorcycle. The road is narrow and lacks guardrails. These last 70 km are tough on us.
The Border Crossing at Phuntsholing
The border crossing at Phuntsholing is symbolic. Bhutanese and Indians pass through without control. We have to get our passports stamped. It takes five minutes and we are in India. Immediately, the traffic becomes hectic, there is chaos on the roads, and it feels like a jungle. Finding the Indian immigration and customs office is a challenge. After a few rounds around the city, we succeed.
Stamping passports and CPD carnets goes smoothly. The customs officers are more knowledgeable than at the eastern border. We stay overnight in Jaigaon, the Indian part of Phuntsholing. We miss Indian food and immediately order our favorite dishes: palak paneer and lassi. Now we have to get used to the Indian style of driving again. I hope I haven’t lost my touch.
TO BE CONTINUED…
Join us on this incredible journey. Once or twice a month, you can expect another installment of our adventure. This way, you will feel the magic of those days, discover the beauty of the places we visited, and relive all the extraordinary moments with us. Each entry is not only a story of adventures but also of the challenges we encountered along the way, the people we met, and the cultures we had the chance to explore.
The world changes, but the memories of our travels remain eternal. What we experienced shaped us and enriched our lives with incredible experiences that we want to share with you. Each episode of our journey will give you the opportunity to travel through time and space, to places full of adventures, surprises, and beautiful landscapes.
We invite you to actively participate in this journey. We look forward to your comments and reflections, and maybe even your own travel stories! Your story can be an inspiration for us and other readers. Share your experiences, insights, and questions with us. Together, we will create a community of motorcycle travel enthusiasts, ready to share knowledge and memories. 🙂
FIND OUT MORE
Discover all the stages of our historic motorcycle journey from Poland to India. Read more about the Motorcycle Expedition to India with Aleksandra Trzaskowska.
Newsletter subscribers get more!
Join MotoBirds Soaring Newsletter and don't miss any important content, gear tests, travel inspirations and newest offers in the future! We'll also let you know about fresh publications on our blog.
