That journey marked the beginning of my love of motorcycle travel, which continues to this day. Thanks to this passion, together with you, I have visited many extraordinary places around the world. We have explored the wild landscapes of Kyrgyzstan, uncovered the mysteries of Nepal and Bhutan, traversed the picturesque routes of Vietnam, marveled at the nature of Tanzania and Namibia, relaxed on the beaches of Costa Rica, and admired the majestic landscapes of Patagonia and the Altiplano. Each of these places had its unique charm and provided unforgettable experiences.

I have decided to revisit these memories and share the story of this, for its time, groundbreaking journey anew, publishing different stages of our adventure in parts. I would like to note that I will not present these memories in a chronological or particularly organized manner. I want to show you how the perspective on traveling the world has changed over all these years.

I will tell you about the places we visited, where we went, what our days looked like, the adventures we had, the challenges we faced, and how we found solutions to the problems that arose on the road.

IMPORTANT NOTICE – ARCHIVAL TRAVEL INFORMATION 

Prices, websites, and other information mentioned in this diary may no longer be up to date. Many years have passed since then, and the world of travel and tourism has undergone significant changes. Traffic regulations, prices, and the availability of places and services may be different from what I described in our diary.

CURRENT TRAVEL INFORMATION 

Whenever possible, I will also provide you with current data, links to up-to-date sources of information, and recommendations. I will update the posts to ensure you have the most accurate and useful information. If I come across new websites, current prices, or changed regulations, I will definitely share them in the publications. This way, our journey together will not only be a sentimental return to the past but also a practical guide to contemporary travel realities.

I also look forward to your comments and reflections—your experiences can be a valuable addition to our memories. Together, we can create a comprehensive resource for all motorcycle travel enthusiasts!

So, let’s begin… 🙂

PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY – MOTORCYCLE EXPEDITION FROM POLAND TO INDIA

PREPARING THE ROUTE IN INDIA – OCTOBER 2008

The preparations for the journey are in full swing. We started them in October 2008, about seven months before the start of the expedition. Currently, we are in the frenzy of buying maps, guidebooks, and other useful materials to develop a detailed travel route. The first step in preparing any trip is choosing the route. Of course, this mainly depends on individual preferences.

Once we decide on a region of the world and familiarize ourselves with the standard guidebooks, it is definitely worth reading travel reports from other travelers, especially motorcyclists. The chance that we will end up in a place where no one has ever been is practically zero. A lot of information about motorcycle trips to the farthest corners of the world can be found on www.horizonsunlimited.com and www.advrider.com. On these sites, we can find a wealth of information needed for planning the trip, as well as many useful contacts.

Finally, we are establishing the course of our route. Now we face a lot of work with the “paperwork.” Of course, we are continuously practicing off-road riding on motorcycles with Łucja and Marek from the “ProMotor” driving school.

VACCINATIONS FOR TRAVELERS TO INDIA

Several months before the start of the journey (the earlier, the better), we need to thoroughly familiarize ourselves with the topic of vaccinations, i.e., which vaccinations are required/recommended on our route during the motorcycle expedition in India.

If we will be traveling through areas at risk for malaria, we also need to research the most current methods/medications for malaria prevention. It is important to remember that some vaccinations need to be administered multiple times, so the entire process requires a lot of time.

MAPS FOR THE MOTORCYCLE JOURNEY TO INDIA

January 28, 2009 – We declare this day as the “Day of Good News.” Today, both of our employers (almost simultaneously) granted us permission for our six-month unpaid leave. Hurrah!

From now on, our Central Asia Project 2009 looks increasingly realistic. Before departure, it is worth stocking up on any available paper maps. It is known that in Poland we won’t get super detailed foreign maps, but those available will certainly suffice for planning the route.

Many maps are available in travel shops (www.traveler.com.pl). We bought all our maps from the publisher Reise-Know-How (www.reise-know-how.de). Their major advantage is the material they are made of: waterproof and tear-resistant synthetic fibers.

CPD CARNETS – “CARNET DE PASSAGES”

Both motorcycles are disassembled to their core components. Only the frames remain untouched. Now, during the long winter and snowy evenings, we (especially Jurek) have a lot of manual work ahead. I’m buried in paperwork – the time for arranging all visas and CPD is fast approaching.

Certain countries in the Middle and Far East, Asia, Africa, Australia, and New Zealand (list of countries at https://www.pzmtravel.com.pl/) require travelers entering their territory with their own vehicles to have a special customs document, the so-called “Carnet de Passage” (CPD). The CPD allows entry into these countries with personal vehicles without incurring customs fees. In Poland, this international customs document is issued by the Polish Automobile and Motorcycle Association (PZM), acting through PZM-Travel.

By issuing the document, PZM-Travel acts as a guarantor that the vehicle will be re-exported back to the country. The CPD is issued for a maximum of 1 year, always for a specific vehicle and person or company. The issuance time for a CPD is 10-14 days.

The carnet must be returned to PZM-Travel within 30 days of the vehicle’s return to the country. A guarantee deposit must be paid for each CPD to the PZM-Travel account. The deposit amount is quite high. For motorcycles, due to entry into Egypt, India, Iran, Pakistan, and South African countries, the deposit is 16,000 PLN.

The deposit is refunded upon return after the formal settlement of the carnet. The price of the CPD itself depends on the number of so-called sheets, i.e., planned entries and exits to countries requiring a CPD. A 5-sheet carnet costs 350 PLN, a 10-sheet carnet – 488 PLN, and a 25-sheet carnet – 732 PLN.

The Royal Enfield, especially the Royal Enfield Himalayan, is now a frequent choice among travelers on every continent. Originally from India, this motorcycle was initially only seen there. I’ve also noticed travelers on Triumphs, which is a new trend. KTM models like the 690 Enduro, 790, 890, and larger ones, as well as the reliable Honda XRV 750 Africa Twin or Transalp, are still popular choices.

Over the years, I’ve seen people traveling on virtually all brands and sizes of motorcycles, even scooters. So, is there an “ideal” motorcycle for traveling?

VISAS FOR ASIAN COUNTRIES AND INTERNATIONAL DRIVING PERMIT

Today, I spent 5 hours filling out visa applications and organizing all the paperwork! It’s grueling work, but without it, we won’t be going anywhere. Before a long trip outside Europe, it’s worthwhile (and sometimes necessary, depending on the destination) to obtain an International Driving Permit (IDP).

Essentially, it’s just a formality – you submit an application at the appropriate local transportation office, pay a fee, and present your national driving license. After a few days (or in some offices, even the same day), the International Driving Permit is ready for pickup.

VISA COSTS AND DOCUMENT ORGANIZATION FOR OUR ROUTE FROM POLAND TO INDIA

All visa applications (except for China) have been submitted. In reality, visas represent a significant cost in the “pre-trip” budget. For us, per person, it looks like this:

• Standard tourist visa for Iran (valid for 3 months from the date stamped in the passport) – 338 PLN
• 5-day transit visa for Turkmenistan – 55 EUR
• 15-day tourist visa for Uzbekistan – 250 PLN
• 30-day tourist visa for Tajikistan – 100 EUR
• 30-day tourist visa for Kyrgyzstan – 105 EUR
• 6-month tourist visa for India from the date stamped in the passport – 184 PLN

We still have the Chinese visa, which we will probably have to arrange on the way. It’s important to note that for Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, and Kyrgyzstan, there are no embassies/consulates in Poland. Poles handle all visa issues in Berlin.

MOTORCYCLE WORKSHOPS AND ENDURO TRAINING

On Saturday, after the winter break, we are starting enduro training at the ProMotor motorcycle school. Despite the uninviting weather – it’s snowing, and the perceived temperature is below 0 degrees – we are going. As usual, we’re meeting with Łucja and Marek. This time, the traditional ride to the “training meadow” through the forest turns out unlucky for me: I hit a tree and end up with a sprained joint in my left middle finger.

Nonetheless, we diligently practice all day on the sandy-muddy meadow: after a break, we need to recall everything. As usual, there are a few standard falls. Jurek, on the other hand, rides excellently, which is noticeable.

By the end of the day, especially during the return journey through the partially icy forest, my injured hand hurts a lot. We rush to get an X-ray right after training. Unfortunately, it turns out that I need to immobilize my sprained finger in a splint for 10 days. No riding during this time! What a start to the season! But at least it’s not a cast for a few weeks. Jurek, meanwhile, strains his knee and can barely walk all Sunday.

MEDICAL INSURANCE FOR MOTORCYCLE TRIPS TO INDIA

For long trips outside the EU, it is essential to have medical insurance. Currently, there are no specific offers in Poland tailored to motorcycle tourism. Therefore, we can either purchase a “globetrotter” type policy or look for a “motorcycle offer” abroad.

The first element we check when examining insurance offers is whether the policy covers motorcycle riding of a specific capacity (sometimes offers are limited to small-capacity motorcycles). The second important element is the territorial scope of the policy.

Policies that theoretically cover the entire world are often very restrictively limited or even excluded in so-called high-risk countries (this is especially true for English companies).

It is also necessary to familiarize yourself with the general terms and conditions of insurance, particularly everything written in “small print” and the exclusions of the insurer’s liability. We are researching the following insurers:

• www.allianz.pl
• www.travel-nation.co.uk
• www.campbellirvine.com
• www.globelink.uk.com
• www.insureandgo.com
• www.marksandspencer.com
• www.carolenash.com
• www.worldwideinsure.com

PERMITS FOR RIDING IN RESTRICTED AREAS

In India, special permits are required for places like Sikkim and some areas in Ladakh. The Indian Embassy in Poland can issue the permit for Sikkim. The matters regarding Ladakh are handled on-site. An entirely separate topic is China, particularly Tibet.

TRAVELING BY MOTORCYCLE TO CHINA

Entering China with your own vehicle (whether a car or motorcycle) requires organizing dozens of documents from the Chinese administration, including Chinese registration, a temporary Chinese driving license, and permits for crossing provincial borders.

Additionally, the journey can only take place “accompanied” by a Chinese guide from a Chinese travel agency. Of course, all this comes at a high cost. These documents can only be organized through Chinese travel agencies (and only a few undertake this task).

PREPARATIONS FOR THE MOTORCYCLE EXPEDITION TO INDIA

The weather is decidedly against us this year! We are fighting for every day, even every moment, to get some training done at our motorcycle school. And there’s little time left until the departure. Fortunately, we managed to get some training done with Łucja.

She pushed me hard, but the ride was excellent. A bit of snow and mud at first, but we quickly managed to get the track in shape. After that, it was easier. Jurek will train tomorrow. Since we sold Jurek’s XR, we have one enduro motorcycle, which we must share. We practice alternately.

PLANNING AN ALTERNATIVE ROUTE

And so it happened – the first unpleasant surprises are appearing. Well, not everything can be “nice, easy, and pleasant.” The Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Iran refuses to issue me a visa. Jurek gets his, but unfortunately, I don’t… It’s tough being a woman in Muslim countries.

We need to quickly think of a “Plan B.” After all, we have learned to be flexible and open to all “gifts of fate.” We’ve spent the whole week thinking about a new route. We want it to be as interesting as possible and feasible… So far, we’ve had enough unpleasant surprises with visa refusals. We decided to visit Georgia after Turkey. Then we plan to explore Armenia.

Since Armenia doesn’t have an open border with Azerbaijan, we have to return to Georgia to get there. A few days of riding through the little-known Azerbaijan and from Baku, we’ll take a ferry to Turkmenbashi (Turkmenistan). I’ve heard mixed reviews about this ferry crossing, but the world belongs to the brave. And we don’t have many options.

INSTALLING CASES AND RACKS

In the rain, we rushed to Puławy to see “Pancernik.”

“Pancernik” is making cases and racks for our trip. We need to install everything on the motorcycles. After several hours of hard work, we succeed – we have something to carry our luggage in!

FINAL TOUCHES BEFORE THE MOTORCYCLE EXPEDITION TO INDIA

Today, unexpectedly, I managed to go on a “practice run” with Łucja. As part of the training, we ride through the forests from Pruszków to Góra Kalwaria and back. In the forest and meadows, we are greeted by a beautiful spring weather.

Of course, there are “attractions” – as always. Our machines barely manage on the waterlogged meadow near “Jeziorka.” We almost got stuck there for good. There was plenty of laughter. We also had to overcome a fallen tree (of substantial size). It was a piece of cake for Łucja, but for me, it was a debut.

I was so focused that instead of gently popping the clutch, I did it “all out,” and the motorcycle literally flew to the other side, landing “nose-first” on the edge of a nearby pond. Fortunately, it didn’t sink.

THE START OF THE GREAT MOTORCYCLE JOURNEY TO INDIA

The departure date is almost here. We’re starting to feel a bit nervous. There are still so many things to take care of. We just want to be on the road already. The moment of departure is always the hardest. Only after a few days does one fall into the “travel trance.”

We invite everyone to our motorcycle farewell on May 1, 2009, at 10 AM. It would mean a lot to us to say goodbye in person to all the motorcyclists (and others) who have been supporting us. We warmly invite all motorized friends (motorcyclists, drivers, scooter riders…) to join us for a farewell and a joint ride to the city limits.

OUR ROAD TO KRAKOW

As the old saying goes: “Even the longest journey begins with a single step.” We managed to take that first step. From Warsaw, after a few turbulent and crazy nights of final preparations, we set off on May 1.

The motorcycle farewell organized by Marek Godlewski and the ProMotor team exceeded our wildest expectations. A lot of supportive people showed up. We tried to greet everyone and exchange a few words. We apologize if we missed anyone… we were in the “departure frenzy.”

A sizable parade of motorcyclists escorted us to the city limits. The parade was led by Piotrek driving his giant off-road vehicle adorned with ProMotor flags. Behind him were two Honda Goldwings, adding a “sound effect” to the parade. Then came us and the rest of our motorcyclist friends. We must have attracted quite a bit of attention on the street. We thank everyone for showing up in such great numbers. It was incredibly touching, and it was hard to hold back tears at times.

In the afternoon, we arrived in Krakow. We rode with five Africa Twins all the way. In the evening, we enjoyed a long family-friend barbecue and chats. We decided to stay in Krakow for another day, to finalize the last details on our motorcycles and to rest a bit.

Now, when I look back after all these years, it brings tears to my eyes…

TO BE CONTINUED…

Join us on this incredible journey. Once or twice a month, you can expect the publication of the next part of our adventure. This way, you will feel the magic of those days, discover the beauty of the places we visited, and relive all those extraordinary moments with us. Each entry is not only a story of adventures but also of the challenges we encountered along the way, the people we met, and the cultures we had the chance to explore.

The world changes, but the memories of our travels remain eternal. What we experienced shaped us and enriched our lives with incredible experiences that we want to share with you. Each episode of our journey will be an opportunity for you to travel in time and space to places full of adventures, surprises, and beautiful landscapes.

I invite you to actively participate in this journey. I look forward to your comments and reflections, and perhaps your own travel stories! Your story can be an inspiration not only for me but also for other readers. Share your experiences, insights, and questions with us. Together, we will create a community of motorcycle travel enthusiasts, ready to share knowledge and memories. 🙂

Find out more

Discover all the stages of our historic motorcycle journey from Poland to India. Read more about the Motorcycle Expedition to India with Aleksandra Trzaskowska.