The China-Nepal Border and Bureaucratic Chaos

From our hotel, it was about 8 km to the Friendship Bridge border crossing. We set off early in the morning. Just before the border, on the last rocky and slippery curve, I took a spectacular fall. The right mirror shattered into a spiderweb of cracks… A great start to the day.

At the border, we discovered we were missing a crucial customs paper that should have been forwarded from the Xinjiang crossing where we had entered China. And so began the calling, questioning, faxing… It lasted eight hours. We spent the entire day at the Chinese side of the border, practicing patience. Thankfully, it gave us a chance to observe daily life around the crossing point.

Just when we thought we wouldn’t make it across that day, the missing document finally arrived. We then had only an hour and a half to complete all formalities and cross the China–Nepal border! Every piece of our luggage was inspected by customs. Eight Nepali men came to our aid, helping carry panniers and bags across the bridge to the Nepali side. As for the motorcycles—we had to push them, since riding across was prohibited.

First Impressions of Nepal

On the Nepali side, chaos reigned. A crowd of people, a rickety road, and lots of confusion. Fortunately, a local guide helped us sort out the customs procedures. Thanks to his assistance, we reached the immigration counter just five minutes before it closed! We quickly filled out the visa forms, and within another five minutes, the visas were in our passports. One last step—health inspection, a temperature check—and… we made it! It was 4:10 p.m. Nepali time, and the border had officially closed at 4:00.

The road on the Nepali side was in even worse condition—muddy, riddled with landslides. But the people seemed more cheerful than in Tibet. Even in the poorest villages, it was possible to communicate in English.

A Peaceful Evening at Borderlands Camp on the Bhote Kosi River

There was no way we’d reach Kathmandu that day. We knew there was a campground—Borderlands—30 km from the border, where we had started a rafting trip three years earlier. We were determined to return. We arrived in the evening, just as dusk was settling in. We were the only guests. During the monsoon season, rafting on the Bhote Kosi is impossible—the river is filled with wildly rushing water.

The camp turned out to be a little jungle paradise, complete with a small, charming thatched-roof restaurant. We spent the evening enjoying delicious food (a welcome change after Tibet) and cold beer. Jurek said he felt at home there—and it was true. The atmosphere was warm and familiar.

Motorcycle Trip Across Nepal: The Tough Road to Bhaktapur

We had 100 kilometers of mountain road ahead of us to reach Kathmandu, with the biggest challenge being the landslides—a constant feature of Nepal’s roads during monsoon season. Every turn could reveal a muddy patch or a freshly eroded section blocked by a mudslide. Despite the difficulties, our fully loaded Africa Twins handled the challenge well, though they weren’t nearly as agile as the local light bikes, which seemed to dance effortlessly between obstacles.

Admiring the breathtaking views, we slowly made our way through the winding mountain switchbacks. Every so often, we passed picturesque villages where life seemed to unfold in total tranquility—a stark contrast to our constant battle with the road.

The closer we got to Bhaktapur, the more the traffic began to resemble the Indian style—complete chaos, left-side driving, and small motorcycles and trucks squeezing in from all directions, seemingly without any rules. After two months of riding empty mountain roads, the sudden intensity of traffic came as quite a shock.

We arrived in Bhaktapur just in time for a local festival. Colorful processions, loud music, and vibrant decorations filled the city with life. As we strolled through the narrow streets, we kept running into groups of celebrating locals. There were fewer tourists than during our visit three years ago—but August is, after all, Nepal’s off-season.

We returned with fondness to the places we remembered from our previous stay. Exploring Bhaktapur felt like unearthing cherished memories—especially the good ones.

Kathmandu: In the Heart of Nepali Chaos

After a few hours of exploring, we headed toward Kathmandu. The road, though short—just 10 km—turned out to be quite a challenge. The traffic felt like a battlefield, with everyone trying to push forward on their own terms. Motorbikes, rickshaws, pedestrians, cars—all fighting for every inch of road. One thing’s for sure: riding in Kathmandu is an experience that stays with you forever.

We finally arrived at a quiet little hotel not far from Thamel. We had deliberately chosen to stay away from the center—Thamel, while iconic, is always noisy and crowded. Just riding through it on motorcycles was an experience in itself. Once we parked the bikes in the hotel courtyard, we decided we wouldn’t touch them again for the rest of our stay in Kathmandu.

That evening, we were finally able to relax and enjoy the silence. After an emotionally charged day, the city slowly began to draw us in with its distinct and irresistible atmosphere. Kathmandu is a place where chaos and harmony seem to coexist in perfect balance.

Motorcycle Trip Across Nepal: The Road to Sauraha

After spending a few days in Kathmandu, we decided it was time for a change of scenery and headed south toward Sauraha—a gateway to Chitwan National Park. Although the route was only 150 kilometers long, it quickly became clear that this wouldn’t be an easy ride. The so-called “highway” turned out to be a narrow, winding mountain path. Monsoon rains made the ride even tougher—with landslides, slick curves, and a constant stream of trucks demanding our full attention. Steep, slippery, and tight—each kilometer required total focus.

The first part of the route took us through the mountains surrounding the Kathmandu Valley, where we were occasionally stunned by breathtaking views—though we spent more time watching the road beneath our tires than the scenery. Our adrenaline spiked on steep, narrow turns crowded with traffic. The flatlands were somewhat more peaceful, but still muddy and riddled with water-damaged sections. Every landslide meant another obstacle to overcome. At times, it felt like the road would never end—but eventually, exhausted, we arrived in Sauraha just in time for lunch.

We checked into a small riverside lodge on the outskirts of the park. The cottages were surrounded by rice fields, and the air was thick with tropical humidity. This place was unlike anything we had seen so far. After the stark, arid landscapes of Tibet and the chaos of Kathmandu, we had entered an entirely different world—lush, tranquil, and naturally beautiful. The tropical vegetation, jungle sounds, and warm air had a soothing effect on us. It felt like something out of a fairy tale.

Sauraha and the Magic of Chitwan National Park – The Tharu Tribe, Elephants, Crocodiles and Jungle Adventures

We spent the afternoon exploring Sauraha—a village inhabited by the Tharu tribe. Their thatched clay and bamboo houses felt like a glimpse into the past, and their simple way of life was deeply harmonious with nature. The Tharu people welcomed us with warmth and curiosity, giving us a much-needed boost of energy after the demanding journey. As we wandered along the village’s narrow paths, we observed their daily lives with admiration—working in rice fields, children playing in the muddy roads, and smiling locals watching us and our motorcycles with fascination.

The next day brought unforgettable adventures in the jungle. In the morning, we set off on a guided trek into the dense tropical forest. The jungle was alive with sound—birdsong, monkey calls, and mysterious noises we couldn’t identify. The tropical humidity made our clothes cling to our skin, and each step took effort, but the stunning natural surroundings made it all worthwhile. Our guide shared stories about the region’s flora and fauna, pointing out animal tracks and explaining how to survive in this challenging environment.

In the afternoon, we experienced another highlight—a jungle ride on the back of an elephant. From this elevated perspective, the jungle looked entirely different. These incredible animals moved with remarkable grace, navigating thick underbrush, muddy terrain, and narrow trails that seemed impassable. The moment of the day came when we encountered a rhino. Seeing this massive creature up close took our breath away. Thankfully, even rhinos seem to respect elephants, so we felt completely safe.

That evening, we tried something completely new—bathing in the river with an elephant. At first, we were a bit hesitant, but we quickly discovered how gentle and playful these animals are. Our elephant playfully tossed us into the water over and over again, leading to endless laughter and repeated attempts to climb back onto his back. It was pure joy and a memory we’ll treasure forever.

We ended the day with a peaceful canoe ride down a crocodile-inhabited river. We kept a safe distance, but just knowing the crocodiles were there added a thrilling edge to the quiet journey. The stillness of the water, broken only by the sounds of the jungle, allowed us to fully appreciate the raw beauty and wildness of this place.

Despite the ever-present rain, Sauraha and Chitwan National Park turned out to be among the most magical places we’ve visited. Every moment spent there was filled with adventure, serenity, and a deep connection to untamed nature. It became a kind of oasis on a journey that continues to surprise and inspire us.

Motorcycle Trip Across Nepal: The Tough Road to Bardia

We left Sauraha early in the morning, knowing we had a long day ahead in the saddle. Bardia was about 450 kilometers away—it might not sound like much, but in Nepali terms, that’s a serious distance. The route led us through the lowlands and over three small mountain ranges that the Nepalis jokingly refer to as “hills.”

The monsoon wasn’t letting up—after just an hour on the road, the rain began to fall, and with only short breaks, it stayed with us all day. Wet roads, slippery curves, and reduced visibility made every stretch demanding. But the changing scenery and the promise of reaching Bardia kept us going.

The rain was, at times, so intense that visibility through the helmet visor dropped to nearly zero. In the mountainous section, fresh landslides appeared almost immediately. Some we were able to go around; others required considerable effort to push our motorcycles through muddy and slippery terrain.

As soon as the landscape leveled out, we thought we could finally relax—but we couldn’t have been more wrong. The lowland roads were flooded. Until then, it was mostly the rice fields beside the road that were submerged, but now the water began to spill over onto the asphalt itself. Some of the villages we passed looked almost completely underwater. Houses stood in knee-deep water, and locals trudged through thick mud.

The only passable route was the main road, which—though flooded—still had a solid asphalt surface. The side paths had turned into muddy swamps, impassable even for local vehicles.

River Crossing and Mud Battles

In Butwal, not far from Lumbini, we stopped briefly to look at a bridge that seemed on the verge of collapsing. The raging river had overflowed its banks, flooding parts of the town. A crowd of locals had gathered on the bridge, anxiously watching the rising water level. We figured that if even they were concerned, something serious must be going on. Still, we decided to push forward, hoping the road ahead would be better.

After Butwal, things did improve slightly. The road became more passable, and the downpour eased for a while. We made it to the town of Anbassa—where we were supposed to turn toward Bardia—without much trouble. But that’s where the biggest surprise of the day awaited us.

The bridge leading to the village inside the park had been washed away by last year’s monsoon. To reach our destination, we now had to cross a river nearly 50 meters wide. Locals told us that under normal circumstances, it was just a small stream. But after several days of intense rain, the water level had risen dramatically.

First, we had to get the motorcycles down a steep, muddy slope to the riverbank. The locals helped us push the bikes through a small channel and then pointed out the shallowest spot for the crossing. The water reached up to our thighs, but luckily, we made it to the other side without tipping over. We were exhausted, soaked, but happy—another challenge overcome.

As it turned out, that was just the beginning of the struggle. We still had around 12 kilometers to go to reach the village inside the park. The trail led through muddy channels with knee-deep water and narrow embankments separating rice paddies. Every meter was a battle—our bikes slipped, sank, and got stuck in the thick mud, while we wrestled them through hot, humid air. After a full day of riding in the rain, this stretch was a true test of endurance.

Motorcycling Through Nepal – A Road Full of Mud, Rivers and Adventure

When we finally arrived, the village looked like it was lost deep in the jungle. There was no electricity—power came on for only a few hours each day. At night, kerosene lamps provided the only light, adding a magical atmosphere to the place.

We spent two days in this enchanting area, getting a closer look at the life of the Tharu people. They were warm and welcoming, and their simple, nature-connected way of living left a deep impression on us. We visited a local elephant and crocodile farm and went on jungle hikes. Wading through knee-deep mud, we felt like real explorers.

The weather finally turned in our favor—two days of sunshine allowed us to enjoy the region to the fullest. We looked forward to the return trip, hoping the mud would dry out at least a little and that the river crossing would be easier. But Nepal has a way of keeping you on your toes, so we braced ourselves for whatever might come next.

TO BE CONTINUED… 

Join us on this incredible journey. Once or twice a month, you can expect another installment of our adventure. This way, you will feel the magic of those days, discover the beauty of the places we visited, and relive all the extraordinary moments with us. Each entry is not only a story of adventures but also of the challenges we encountered along the way, the people we met, and the cultures we had the chance to explore.

The world changes, but the memories of our travels remain eternal. What we experienced shaped us and enriched our lives with incredible experiences that we want to share with you. Each episode of our journey will give you the opportunity to travel through time and space, to places full of adventures, surprises, and beautiful landscapes.

We invite you to actively participate in this journey. We look forward to your comments and reflections, and maybe even your own travel stories! Your story can be an inspiration for us and other readers. Share your experiences, insights, and questions with us. Together, we will create a community of motorcycle travel enthusiasts, ready to share knowledge and memories. 🙂

FIND OUT MORE

Discover all the stages of our historic motorcycle journey from Poland to India. Read more about the Motorcycle Expedition to India with Aleksandra Trzaskowska.