Motorcycle Journey Through India – Jammu and Rajasthan. A Travel Diary.
A motorcycle journey through India is a constant battle against unpredictable challenges, like a dead battery or unexpected illnesses. A delayed departure from Srinagar and the crowded roads leading to the Jammu Valley are just the beginning of our adventures. A forced stop in the mountain village of Patnitop provides a brief respite, but soon we are back on the road, heading toward Amritsar, where the Golden Temple of the Sikhs—one of the most breathtaking sites in India—awaits us. Each day on the road brings new challenges, from the omnipresent trucks to the relentless heat that accompanies us across the plains of Punjab. The Golden Temple, full of pilgrims, captivates with its architecture and hospitality. After a short rest, we head to Delhi, where we finally experience a touch of “Western luxury” at McDonald’s. In Delhi, we meet our fellow motorcyclist GeeDee and embark on a unique adventure: transporting motorcycles by train across India. Our journey ends in Gauwahati with the Durga Puja festival, wrapping up this thrilling trip where every day brought a new discovery.
Motorcycling Through India – A Small Setback on the Journey
Our departure from Srinagar is significantly delayed, all thanks to the mischief of my Africa Twin’s battery—it turns out all the water has disappeared from it. Only after finding a shop to refill the battery fluid and fix everything are we able to leave at 11:30.
The road from Srinagar to the Jammu Valley is terribly congested. Trucks dominate the traffic, often overtaking each other with impunity. Extreme caution is required, as vehicles frequently veer into oncoming traffic. Midway, we pass through a 2.5-kilometer-long tunnel. The valley on the Srinagar side still offers relatively pleasant temperatures, but as we emerge from the tunnel, we are hit by a wave of heat. It’s scorching hot, and I dread to think what it must be like on the southern plains.
A Forced Stop in Patnitop
Unfortunately, Jurek catches the flu—perhaps due to the heat. For the night, we stop in Patnitop, a mountain village about 100 kilometers before Jammu. The temperatures here are more bearable. Everyone had advised us to skip Jammu, as there’s nothing interesting there, and taking that route would only extend the journey.
We decide to stay in Patnitop for two days. Jurek spends the entire time sleeping and recovering, while I take the opportunity to organize my photos and catch up on overdue blog posts.
Continuing the Journey to Amritsar
After two days of recuperation, Jurek finally feels better, so we set off again. Our destination is Amritsar and the Golden Temple of the Sikhs. The road to Amritsar was supposed to be easy and quick, but reality turns out to be quite different. The entire route is paved, but it’s anything but fast. The traffic is immense, and the number of trucks is overwhelming. Everyone jostles for position in typical Indian fashion.
Amritsar and the Golden Temple of the Sikhs
Amritsar is a city in the state of Punjab, best known for the Golden Temple of the Sikhs, the holiest site in Sikhism. The Golden Temple, also called Harmandir Sahib, is an impressive structure surrounded by the artificial lake Amrit Sarovar, whose waters are considered sacred. The temple is covered in gold, giving it an extraordinary glow, especially at sunrise and sunset.
This site attracts thousands of pilgrims and tourists, drawn not only by its religious significance but also by its breathtaking architecture. The temple exudes a unique atmosphere of hospitality—visitors are welcome to eat and stay for free for up to three days, in keeping with the tradition of “langar,” a communal kitchen offering free meals to everyone.
The only part of the route that offers a bit of respite from the congestion is a shortcut bypassing Jammu. This less crowded stretch is a welcome change. Beyond the shortcut, we hit the plains, bidding farewell to the mountains for a few days. The heat becomes unbearable, reminding us of the hottest days we experienced in Iran.
About 70 kilometers before Amritsar, we turn onto a side road where traffic eases slightly. We arrive in the city in the afternoon. Expecting less traffic on a Sunday, we are instead met with the opposite—crowds of pilgrims flocking to the Golden Temple. The streets are packed with people, tuk-tuks, and bicycles. It’s chaos. We have to assertively weave through the throng and stop at nearly every intersection to ask for directions, as there are, of course, no signs.
Staying at the Pilgrims’ Lodge
At last, we reach the Golden Temple. We plan to stay at the “pilgrims’ lodge“, where one room is reserved for foreigners. We park our motorcycles under the stairs in the courtyard. Everywhere on the patio and throughout the floors of the lodge, Hindus—pilgrims—are sleeping. Thousands of them. The sight is astonishing. Our arrival does not go unnoticed, to say the least. The crowd gathering around us and our motorcycles is the largest we’ve ever encountered, even compared to Iran. We can barely move.
The Golden Temple in Amritsar offers a unique rule: all visitors can sleep and eat here for free for up to three days. We claim beds in the “room for whites,” cover our heads with scarves, remove our shoes, and head to the temple. The entire temple complex is awe-inspiring, especially in the evening when the Golden Temple is beautifully lit. Thousands of pilgrims, not just Sikhs, move about the area. Some bathe in the lake surrounding the temple, and to our astonishment, many even drink its water!
In the afternoon, we visit the temple’s dining hall. The system for feeding thousands of pilgrims is perfected to an art, with most of the cooking and cleaning done by volunteers. Eating among about 1,500 other pilgrims is an unforgettable experience.
Motorcycling Through India – From Amritsar to Delhi
We plan to cover the distance from Amritsar to Delhi in a single day. It’s 450 kilometers, but it’s considered one of the best roads in the country. This time, the road truly isn’t bad. We’re able to ride much faster than usual. Of course, there are occasional surprises—a tractor or tuk-tuk driving the wrong way—but by now, we’re used to it. The sight of elephants strolling along the highway is a bit unexpected, but herds of buffalo are already the norm for us.
The highlight of the ride is a lunch stop at McDonald’s—our first McDonald’s in over five months! Like excited kids, we dive into fries. Indian food is delicious, but after such a long time, we couldn’t resist a little taste of “the West.”
Arriving in Delhi
We reach Delhi in the afternoon. On the outskirts, we meet up with our motorcyclist friend, GeeDee. He comes to pick us up on his Honda, so we don’t have to navigate through the city on our own. It takes over 40 minutes to reach GeeDee’s apartment, but we manage to avoid the city center.
Delhi strikes us as surprisingly civilized and orderly—at least compared to what we thought three years ago. Back then, during our first visit, the city seemed like a dirty jungle. After five months of riding through various places in India and beyond, our perspective has shifted a bit. Even riding a motorcycle in Delhi feels easier than in other Indian cities.
We stay with GeeDee for a few days, taking the opportunity to rest and recharge for the final, mountainous leg of our journey.
Motorcycling Through India, But This Time by Train…
As a break from riding, we take a short, two-day trip from Delhi to Agra. We leave our motorcycles at GeeDee’s place and take the train to Agra. We just don’t have the energy to deal with the heat and crowded roads.
In Agra, we’re immediately swarmed by a crowd of hustlers of all kinds as soon as we arrive at the station. Fortunately, by now, we’re immune to their tactics.
From the station, we head straight for the Taj Mahal. We’re supposed to meet Alberto there, who arrived in Agra a day earlier. Unfortunately, we can’t get in touch with him the entire day. It’s a shame we miss our Italian travel companion, but there’s always Europe… For another time.
World Heritage – Taj Mahal, One of the Seven Wonders of the World, a Symbol of Love and Majestic Architecture
The Taj Mahal is one of the most recognizable landmarks in the world, considered a masterpiece of Mughal architecture. Located in Agra, northern India, the mausoleum was built by Emperor Shah Jahan in the 17th century as a tribute to his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal, who passed away during childbirth.
Constructed from white marble, its perfectly symmetrical design and intricately carved details make the Taj Mahal a symbol of eternal love and beauty. Reflected in the waters of the surrounding pools, the mausoleum attracts millions of tourists from around the globe, who marvel at its grandeur and delicacy, particularly at sunrise and sunset, when the marble shimmers in a spectrum of hues.
At the Taj Mahal, the number of visitors is overwhelming—far too many for our liking. But then again, it is one of the wonders of the world. The mausoleum itself is truly stunning and well worth a visit, even with the crowds. We spend several hours there. The funniest part is that many Indians, instead of taking photos of the Taj Mahal, ask to take pictures with us. Eventually, it becomes exhausting.
The next day, we explore Agra’s other attractions: the Red Fort, the so-called Baby Taj, the Chini Ka Roza mausoleum, and the Mahtab Bagh gardens, which offer a stunning view of the Taj Mahal.
Agra – A City of Historical and Cultural Attractions
Agra is a city rich in historical and cultural attractions that draw tourists from around the world. Its most famous landmark is, of course, the Taj Mahal.
Another must-see site is the Red Fort, also known as Lal Qila. This impressive sandstone fortress once served as the residence of Mughal rulers. Surrounded by massive walls, the fort houses numerous palaces, mosques, and gardens, making it a fascinating glimpse into the grandeur of the Mughal era.
The Baby Taj, or the tomb of I’timād-ud-Daulah, is another noteworthy spot. Often considered a prototype for the Taj Mahal, this smaller but equally stunning mausoleum is made of white marble and adorned with intricate inlay work.
The Mahtab Bagh Gardens, also called the “Moonlight Gardens,” lie across the Yamuna River from the Taj Mahal. Originally established by Emperor Babur, these gardens offer a serene space for a leisurely stroll and provide a breathtaking view of the Taj Mahal, especially at sunset.
Finally, the Chini Ka Roza mausoleum is the resting place of poet and minister Afzal Khan, who served Emperor Shah Jahan. Located along the Yamuna River, this tomb is renowned for its beautiful blue tiles decorating the façade and its unique architecture, which blends Persian and Indian styles.
Our impressions of Agra are positive—it’s hard to feel otherwise with such stunning architecture—but the city feels too touristy and overcrowded for us. The hustlers are especially persistent here, and we’ve never encountered such an overwhelming level of trickery until now.
Return from Agra to Delhi
We return from Agra to Delhi on a “sleeper train.” Although the journey takes only three hours, our train originates from Mumbai and consists solely of sleeper carriages. Sleeper trains in India differ from those in Europe—there are no compartments, and the beds are arranged both across and along the carriage. I must admit, it’s quite a practical and comfortable concept.
In Delhi, we spend another day with GeeDee. We have long conversations and enjoy a delicious dinner in the evening. Our next destination is Bhutan. The journey from Delhi to the Bhutanese border is nearly 2,000 kilometers through India’s sweltering plains, including the challenging region of Bihar. To save time and effort, we decide to cover this distance by train—this time, along with our motorcycles.
Heading Toward Bhutan
Our plan is to take the train with our motorcycles to Gauwahati and enter Bhutan from the east rather than the west, as we initially intended. This change allows us to save a few days for riding through Sikkim and Bhutan, regions known for their stunning, culturally rich, and remote mountains. A 28-hour train journey with our motorcycles is an entirely new and intriguing experience for us.
Fortunately, transporting motorcycles by train in India is not unusual. Many people do it. The only challenge is the size of our bikes—the railway staff are accustomed to handling small Royal Enfields, not large machines like the Honda Africa Twin.
On the morning of September 26, we set out with GeeDee for New Delhi Railway Station, the city’s main train hub.
Packing the Motorcycles for the Train
The ride through the city center is surprisingly pleasant—free of the usual “Indian” road chaos. Delhi once again positively surprises us! GeeDee parks his small Honda outside the station while we ride our Africa Twins straight onto the platform to the “packing point.”
This is where the typical Indian chaos begins—everyone is eager to pack our motorcycles, shouting over one another with their offers. We skillfully dodge most of the loud voices and the towering piles of parcels, heading toward the prearranged “packer.” Officially, the fuel tanks of the bikes are supposed to be emptied, but in practice, this turns out to be unnecessary.
Packing the motorcycles involves wrapping them in cardboard and jute sacks to ensure they survive the journey intact. Naturally, we leave all our luggage strapped to the bikes. The sight of our bikes “dressed” in sacks and cardboard is quite amusing!
After packing, it’s time for paperwork, and that’s where things get tricky. The cost of transporting motorcycles for foreigners is significantly higher than for locals. To make matters worse, one railway official suddenly declares that the railway does not accept foreign motorcycles at all. What saves the situation is the fact that I’m “a woman riding a big motorcycle,” which quickly changes the official’s mind.
GeeDee handles all the negotiations with the railway staff, instructing us to stay out of sight to avoid increasing the “bribe rates.” So, we wait patiently, lounging in the shade on stacks of parcels scattered across the platform. Initially, the locals are curious about us and our motorcycles, but they soon get used to our presence.
The bureaucracy takes a long time, but eventually, GeeDee returns triumphant, with all the arrangements successfully completed.
Motorcycling Through India – Can We Keep Going?
The final hurdle is haggling over a bribe to “make room for the motorcycles in the freight car.” The locals try to outsmart us, but as seasoned travelers, we hold our ground and pay the standard local rate. The process of loading the motorcycles is, as expected, extremely chaotic.
First, we have to roll the motorcycles onto the platform—a task we tackle together because all the locals are too intimidated to touch our massive bikes. We position ourselves near the parcels awaiting loading. The train arrives late, leaving us little time to get everything on board. The packers begin tossing boxes into the freight car while we wait for our turn.
Jurek, with the help of 20 locals and GeeDee, lifts the front of the Africa Twin, and the bike is shoved into the train. Then it’s my bike’s turn. Once both motorcycles are inside, the workers hurriedly throw the remaining packages into the car, including metal chairs, which land precariously on our bikes.
We have to sprint to our carriage, with just a minute to spare before departure. We dive into the compartment, wave goodbye to GeeDee through the window, and the train sets off! GeeDee proves to be an invaluable ally throughout the entire “train operation.”
Our cozy four-berth compartment is shared with a Nepali couple. We are the only foreigners in the carriage, and possibly the entire train. Ahead of us lies a 28-hour journey.
On the Way to Gauwahati
The train turns out to be exceptionally comfortable and “civilized.” The food is excellent, and the portions are so generous that we can’t possibly finish everything. For more than half the journey, we sleep like logs, catching up on rest after the rigors of travel. For once, there’s no rush and no need to worry about anything.
The rest of the time passes quickly with reading and chatting with the Nepali couple sharing our compartment. The journey feels surprisingly short and not tiresome at all. We also enjoy watching the landscape change through the windows. Assam where Gauwahati is located, is a flat, hot, and jungle-covered region. Compared to the area around Delhi, which we recently left behind, the scenery changes dramatically. We’re back in the jungle, reminiscent of the one we bid farewell to in Nepal.
We arrive in Gauwahati in the evening and immediately rush to the baggage car. As the doors open, some packages spill out onto the platform. Under the first layer of boxes, our motorcycles are visible. Only one of Jurek’s mirrors and mine suffered some damage during the journey—luckily, neither broke—and there’s minor scuffing on the fairing. Lesson learned: next time, we’ll remove all protruding parts before transit.
Unloading the Motorcycles
Unloading the bikes from the train is as chaotic as the packing process. Jurek, with the help of a dozen locals, pushes the motorcycles out of the car onto the platform. Due to the significant height difference, the Africa Twins get stuck momentarily on their engine guards, but eventually, we manage to get them onto the platform. We immediately strip off all the jute sacks and cardboard.
The station exit is on the opposite side of the platform, so we simply start the engines and ride across the entire station. Most of the locals are delighted, though one station worker yells that riding is not allowed. Jurek calmly rides on, pretending not to hear. I, unnecessarily, stop and switch off my bike. After pushing the “beast” a few meters, I notice the worker has turned away, so I hop back on, start the engine, and dash toward the exit.
At the station gate, we’re told we need some paperwork to leave for the city. Firmly insisting we don’t, we argue with the guards. Eventually, Jurek returns to the baggage car with one of the staff to retrieve the supposed missing document (and, of course, make a payment). However, the baggage car supervisor yells at the gate guard, and it turns out no document is needed after all. Finally, we ride out of the station.
The heat is oppressive, even though it’s already 7:00 PM. Not wanting to wander around the city in the dark, we head to the first decent-looking hotel we find. After a few minutes under a cold shower, we start to feel human again and venture into the city.
We’re in luck—Gauwahati is celebrating one of the most important Hindu festivals, Durga Puja. The streets are adorned with colorful Hindu shrines where dances and prayers are taking place. The vibrant celebrations add a magical touch to our arrival.
The Hindu Festival of Durga Puja
Durga Puja is one of the most important and vibrant Hindu festivals, celebrated with great fervor, particularly in West Bengal and other parts of India. This festival is dedicated to Goddess Durga, symbolizing the triumph of good over evil.
For several days, city streets come alive with colorful decorations, music, dancing, and prayers. The climax of the celebration is the final day, when idols of Goddess Durga are immersed in rivers or other bodies of water, symbolizing her return to the heavens. This festival unites communities and celebrates strength, courage, and the victory of righteousness.
We visit several of these vibrant shrines. Immediately, we are offered local delicacies prepared for the Puja. We eat to our hearts’ content! The sheer explosion of colors, sounds, and scents in the shrines is astonishing. It’s truly a vividly celebrated festival.
TO BE CONTINUED…
Join us on this incredible journey. Once or twice a month, you can expect another installment of our adventure. This way, you will feel the magic of those days, discover the beauty of the places we visited, and relive all the extraordinary moments with us. Each entry is not only a story of adventures but also of the challenges we encountered along the way, the people we met, and the cultures we had the chance to explore.
The world changes, but the memories of our travels remain eternal. What we experienced shaped us and enriched our lives with incredible experiences that we want to share with you. Each episode of our journey will give you the opportunity to travel through time and space, to places full of adventures, surprises, and beautiful landscapes.
We invite you to actively participate in this journey. We look forward to your comments and reflections, and maybe even your own travel stories! Your story can be an inspiration for us and other readers. Share your experiences, insights, and questions with us. Together, we will create a community of motorcycle travel enthusiasts, ready to share knowledge and memories. 🙂
FIND OUT MORE
Discover all the stages of our historic motorcycle journey from Poland to India. Read more about the Motorcycle Expedition to India with Aleksandra Trzaskowska.
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